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以质取胜,而不是以量取胜

更新时间:21-07-06

以质取胜,而不是以量取胜,是我们西班牙人酒庄DO5一直坚守的经营理念。

上月,我们酒庄受邀参加了EL MUNDO新一期的采访,在采访中,可以看到酒庄在追求品质这条路上从没停下,质量是产品的根本,DO5的酒款能在众多量化的产品里脱颖而出,继而长盛不衰,更加印证了酒庄不断追求生产经营精品葡萄酒的正确性。

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报道内容:英文(原文)

THE GASTRONOMAD By Victor de la Serna

When choosing small means choosing better.

The decision to focus on premium, higher added value wines as opposed to the more commercial, high volume segment of the market is an increasingly popular strategy for several large winery groups.

选择小的意味着选择更好的。

对于一些大型酒庄集团来说,日益流行的发展策略是专注于酿制优质、高附加值的葡萄酒,而不是生产更商业化、市场占比大的葡萄酒。

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More is better. In the world of Spanish gastronomy, this belief has helped generate large quantities –of wine, of olive oil, of ham....- but it’s also to blame for a lot of mediocrity. We’ve discussed the tendency on these pages on several occasions, alongside the counter move away from mass production and towards making less but of higher quality; discarding more industrial processes to focus on the artisanal.

“更多会更好”

在西班牙美食的世界里,这种信念下产生了大量的美食,如葡萄酒,橄榄油,火腿等……但同时也带来了很多平庸的产物。我们已经在很多场合上讨论过当今的趋势,与此同时,更多的生产商开始从大规模生产模式转向低产但品质更高的生产模式;撇弃了更多的工业流程,更加专注于手工制作。

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Scarcely a month ago, we reported on the complaint from the small producers association, Family Wineries of Rioja (Bodegas Familiares de Rioja), highlighting the fact that that over the last ten years, 53 wineries and almost 3,000 winegrowers (DOCa Rioja) have disappeared, ¨thanks to policies which prioritise quantity over quality, an excessive bureaucracy, and a lack of institutional support for the family business model.¨

就在一个月前,我们报道了来自小生产商协会的投诉,里奥哈的家族酒庄突出显示,在过去的十年中,由于政策上倾向数量高于质量,过度的官僚主义,以及缺乏制度的支持,有53家酿酒厂和近3000名葡萄酒种植者已经消失。

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It’s true: small businesses don’t get much support, but all over Spain the ones that are surviving – and not just through this year of pandemic, when wine sales in Spain have fallen more than in any other country thanks to such a high reliance on sales to the hospitality sector, which has been closed pretty much everywhere–are doing so precisely because they are focused on quality and authenticity.

这是真的:小企业没有得到太多支持,今年疫情爆发,政府对人员流动有一定的限制,葡萄酒销售量大幅下跌,大量酒商都处于一个倒闭或半倒闭的状态,但西班牙的小企业生存下来了,正是因为他们专注于质量和真实性。

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Another, perhaps even more challenging path, is that of large winery groups which decide to shrink, or downsize, in order to focus on developing more premium wines – with higher value added – from a single vineyard, or smaller wine-growing area (paraje), or from very old vines and using more natural winemaking methods.

另一条可能更具挑战性的道路,是大型酒庄集团决定缩小规模,以专注于生产更多优质的葡萄酒-具有更高附加值-来自单一葡萄园或较小的葡萄种植区,葡萄选自非常古老的葡萄藤和使用更自然的酿酒方法。

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A couple of years ago in EL MUNDO we took a closer look at one of these (rare) groups which deliberately sets out to narrow its focus, and we have just tasted their wines again. Theirs is an original and encouraging story which other wineries should take note of.

几年前,我们在EL MUNDO仔细研究了其中一个(追求极致的)团队,他们故意缩小自己关注的范围,我们刚刚尝过他们的葡萄酒。他们的故事是一个新颖的,鼓舞人心的故事,值得其他酒庄去关注。

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The group in question is Hispanobodegas, created a few years ago by bringing together the Valdelacierva winery in Rioja, Gormaz from the eastern end of Ribera del Duero around Soria, and Garcigrande from DO Rueda, and the original plan was for fairly large production of a range of mid-priced wines. Not any more, at least not in the first two wineries, although the refining process doesn’t seem to have got underway yet in Rueda.

这个团队是西班牙人酒庄D.O.5集团,集团创立已久,由里奥哈产区的华伦天使酒庄,杜埃罗河岸产区的歌玛酒庄和卢埃达产区的雅西兰德酒庄组成,他们最初的计划是大量生产一系列中等价格的葡萄酒。但现在不再是这样了,至少在前两家酒庄中没有,即使是没有提炼过程的卢埃达产区的酒庄也同样开始了。

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To give you an idea of scale, between Valdelacierva and Gormaz – the former wine cooperative in the village of San Esteban de Gormaz, privatized in 2004 – the group has more than 400 hectares under vine. Bigger is best, as they like to say around these parts: with that amount of vines planted, at a conservative estimate, if it wanted to the group could produce over 3 million bottles every year across the two regions.

让您了解一下华伦天使酒庄和歌玛酒庄的生产规模,这两个是San Esteban de Gormaz村的前葡萄酒合作社,在2004年实现私有化。集团拥有超过 400 公顷的葡萄园,如果按当今大家喜欢的那种想法:最大的是最好的,那这个集团在这两个产区种植了大量的葡萄藤,如果集团愿意的话,保守估计,他们每年可以生产超过300万瓶的葡萄酒。

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Another important factor in the company’s makeover has been the conscious decision to avoid 1990s, or Parker-style wines which have had so many supporters and practitioners, especially in Ribera del Duero.

集团决定改造的另一个重要因素是,集团有意识去避免生产像20世纪90年代的,拥有众多支持者和从业者的帕克式葡萄酒,特别是在杜埃罗河岸产区。

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The reader will know what I am talking about: wines like luxurious soups of oak. Instead, the team have carried out a detailed study of their excellent viticultural heritage to help identify the vines with the best potential for making refined wines packed with personality: through close study of soils and orientation, careful blending of grapes in modestly-sized cuvees or, in some cases, wines made from grapes from a single parcel.

读者会知道我在说什么:葡萄酒就像奢华的橡木糖。取而代之的是,该团队对其卓越的葡萄文化遗产进行了详细地研究,以帮助确定最有潜力酿造充满个性的精品葡萄酒的葡萄:通过对土壤和方向的密切研究,在中等大小的葡萄中加入混合葡萄 ,在某些情况下,是用单一园里的葡萄酿制的葡萄酒。

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A couple of years ago when we first tasted the wines, there were fewer single plot bottlings but now, with the new Rioja rules in place, the winery has registered ten Single Vineyard wines (Viñedos Singulares, although Hispanobodegas prefers the term únicos, or unique), which they are beginning to sell in unusually limited batches of 1,000, 2,000, or 3,000 bottles.

几年前,我们第一次品尝他们的葡萄酒,当时用单一园葡萄酿制的葡萄酒很少,但现在,随着里奥哈新规则的实施,该酒庄已经注册了10个单一葡萄园(Viñedos Singulares,尽管西班牙人酒庄更喜欢term únicos, or unique),他们开始以异常限量的方式销售,1000瓶、2000瓶或3000瓶。

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The Valdelacierva winery, based in Navarrete, has its prize sites in the Sonsierra and Rioja Alavesa but has also added some parcels of old Garnacha vines in Tudelilla. Gormaz, in the highest, coldest, most easterly portion of Ribera, has its 3 key vineyards in and around villages like Atauta, Alcubilla de Avellanada which are beginning to acquire a reputation in wine circles.

位于纳瓦莱特的华伦天使酒庄,在 Sonsierra 和 Rioja Alavesa 有重要的地块,在Tudelilla也种植了古老的歌海娜葡萄藤。歌玛酒庄位于杜埃罗最高、最冷、最东部的地区,在Atauta, Alcubilla de Avellanada这些村庄和周边有3个主要的葡萄园,也开始在葡萄酒界享有盛誉。

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Women, who thanks to their recognized sharper sense of taste and smell are playing an increasingly important role in the development of Spain’s vineyards and wineries, play an important role in this company. Two of them, Raquel Ruiz and the enologist Emma Villajos, hosted a tasting in Madrid the other day which showcased a broader range of the group’s wines whilst demonstrating that they have managed to preserve those welcome virtues which we discovered back in 2019: a delicate handling of the grapes (using large wooden vats and barrels), limited extraction, and used French oak to leave a more delicate imprint on the wine.

女性群体有着公认的更敏锐的味觉和嗅觉,女性在西班牙葡萄园、酒庄和集团的发展中发挥着越来越重要的作用。集团的其中两位女性,Raquel Ruiz和酿酒师Emma Villajos,前几天在马德里举办了一场品酒会,展示了集团全系列葡萄酒,同时,也跟大众分享了他们是如何努力去提升葡萄酒品质的:对葡萄精细处理(使用大缸大木桶),限量提取,并使用法国橡木桶为葡萄酒带来更柔和细腻的口感,这点也是我们在2019年已经发现的。

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In the midst of so much negative news in the world of wine – we’ve seen reports of more than one serious situation (France) – this reencounter served as a welcome reminder of what is possible, an example of a Spanish winery consciously tacking back towards quality and terroir in the midst of a pretty rocky domestic wine scene.

在葡萄酒界如此多的负面新闻中,我们看到的严重情况(法国)的报道不止一个,这次的重逢就像是一个提醒,告诉大家什么是可能的,他们就是一个很好的例子:一个西班牙酒庄在动荡的国内葡萄酒环境中,有意识地把工作重心重新回到产品质量和风土特性上。

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From the group’s Riojan winery, I was particularly impressed by the Valdelacierva Grano a Grano, a Tempranillo from the La Botija estate in Baños de Ebro, where the grapes are destemmed individually by hand (hence the grano a grano name) to keep them whole and ensure a perfect intracellular maceration, and the refreshing Valdelacierva Montepedriza, one of the winery’s unique vineyard wines made from 85 year old Garnacha vines planted in Tudelilla.

在该集团里奥哈的华伦天使酒庄,我对华伦天使颗颗精选的印象特别深刻,这款酒选用的添普兰尼洛是来自Baños de Ebro的La Botija庄园,每颗葡萄都是手工挑选出来的(因此颗颗精选被用作这款酒的名字),这个做法是为了保持葡萄的完整性,确保葡萄内的细胞能完全浸渍,还有一款让人耳目一新的酒款,华伦天使Montepedriza,这款酒由种植在Tudelilla地区的85年老树龄的歌海娜葡萄酿制而成。

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Under its 12 Linajes brand, the Gormaz winery also makes a noteworthy Grano a Grano wine with grapes from the now legendary Valdegatiles paraje in Atauta. We’ll soon also be able to buy the 12 Linajes Senda de la Estación 2019, a new wine with the finesse of a top Burgundy. For the moment these wines are not well known, but they are well worth seeking out...

12家族这个品牌,歌玛酒庄也做了一款特别的颗颗精选酒款,酿酒葡萄是选自于传说中Atauta的Valdegatiles paraje。我们很快也能买到12家族新酒款,12 Linajes Senda de la Estación 2019,一款具有细腻度的新酒,这是全新的用顶级勃艮第瓶包装的精品酒。

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目前这些葡萄酒还没广为人知,但它们非常值得人们去追寻和关注。

-以上是全部采访的内容

在这里很开心地告诉大家,这些新品6月25日已经到货中国了,但由于产量有限,每款产品都是限量发售,很快消费者们就可以品尝到我们酒庄近些年来的最佳精品力作。两个产区,不同的气候风土,不同的葡萄树龄,不同的酿酒师,但同样精细化的采摘,挑选,酿制,橡木桶陈酿过程。我们已迫不及待,期待与你们共享!

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